Logos Lose Their Power on the New ‘Gossip Girl’


Even after the beloved teen drama sequence “Gossip Girl” resulted in 2012, viewers couldn’t cease speaking about the vogue. And now the present is again, with a Gen Z replace. The reboot, which had its premiere on July eight on HBO Max, takes place in the similar world of rich Upper East Side elite as the unique, however this time it’s barely recognizable as the similar place.

The present is considerably extra various. The highschool clique of the unique present was largely white and straight. Now there are a number of characters of shade and plotlines that revolve round explorations of sexuality. The garments the characters put on — maximalist sneakers, classic purses, tote luggage that promote their values — replicate a extra intersectional worldview.

“Are these final season’s Tory Burch flats?” an incredulous Blair Waldorf asks a fellow pupil in Season 2 of the unique present.

Today, the query could be, “Are these Tory Burch flats?”

When designing the wardrobes for the unique present, the costume designer Eric Daman remembers strolling by Upper East Side non-public colleges and seeing teams of ladies in Tory Burch flats. “It cemented the idea of, ‘OK, these young girls wear these designer brands and have cult favorites,’” he mentioned. You’d see few logo-emblazoned ballet flats in that setting right now.

“The giant Balenciaga sneakers kind of replaced the Tory Burch flat,” Mr. Daman mentioned. The change is indicative of what individuals, and younger individuals particularly, take into account the “it” shoe of right now. Blending streetwear and luxurious in a single business object, the sneaker is what epitomizes cool now.

The new footwear can also be a part of the bigger shift to sneakers, which not often confirmed up in the previous present. In the reboot, Zoya Lott, an outsider from Buffalo, wears the Adidas X Beyoncé Superstars in a key scene by which she meets the common youngsters at college. The sneakers are a present from Julien, her half sister and a longtime Manhattanite. Showing up in the scorching commodity sneakers symbolizes a turning level for the character.

“The shoes are kind of like a bridge into this other world for her,” Mr. Daman mentioned.

Big model logos might be uncommon sights on the new present. Large logos don’t “feel authentic to what’s going on with this generation,” Mr. Daman mentioned. “They’re less faithful to brands and less cliquey about them.”

Logos used to indicate standing and a sure stage of wealth, however right now logos are sometimes meant to convey political or social values. In the reboot, Zoya carries a tote from Revolution Books, a progressive indie bookstore in Harlem, in addition to a “Recycling Black Dollars” tote bag from Melanin Apparel.

Zoya’s luggage are “all from really, really cool stores,” mentioned Whitney Peak, who performs Zoya. “The bags very much speak to who she is.”

“Tights are not pants!” Blair famously declared in the unique sequence. Blair and her posse of imply women generally wore tights in a wide range of colours and have been offended at the sight of anybody carrying leggings and not using a skirt.

With the exception of some plain black tights, the reboot is “a tightless world,” Mr. Daman mentioned. And to what will surely be Blair’s dismay, bike shorts are definitely considered pants now.

Queen bee Julien frequently wears bike shorts, sometimes styling them with a collared shirt and tie. The athleisure movement, Mr. Daman said, “is a huge part of our culture and what’s going on in fashion. Coming out of the pandemic, people are holding onto their sweats but still want to dress up.”

Jordan Alexander, who plays Julien, sees her character’s bike shorts as a highly relevant article of clothing today. “I don’t think it matters if you’re on the Upper East Side and in the one percent,” she said. “You’d still be rocking shorts.”

The size of the bags has also changed. The large hobo bag, Mr. Daman said, “is just not the jam” today. The micro Jacquemus Le Chiquito has yet to make an appearance, but it probably will soon, he said.

In the original show, Chuck Bass was most often seen in a suit, conforming strictly to gender norms. “If I’d put a women’s blouse on Chuck Bass, it would’ve been a joke,” Mr. Daman said.

In the reboot, Max Wolfe, the flirty troublemaker of the group and the character most similar to Chuck, wears a white lace women’s Paco Rabanne shirt. Max, who is sexually fluid, is able to pull it off in a way that’s not kitschy or excessive. “To use clothing that doesn’t fit in with gender norms and not have it look like drag and be very sexy — he identifies as a male but wears this blouse — expands on the dialogue of what gender norms are and how we can have that conversation through clothing,” Mr. Daman said.

In the first iteration of the show, Chanel was huge for the characters’ style but also for getting other designers to open up their collections to the show. “We didn’t have access to all the designer houses and weren’t getting loans,” Mr. Daman said. “Once Chanel said yes to us, the floodgates opened.”

Today Chanel pieces that hold historic value are of huge importance to the characters. “It’s these archival pieces that have a heritage to them that are on point, especially for the Zoomers who seem to love all things throwback to late ’90s and early ’00s,” Mr. Daman said. Classic Chanel handbags and accessories make heavy appearances in the show, as they are pieces that still resonate with younger generations.

Any OG “Gossip Girl” fan knows that headbands were a big deal. “Blair Waldorf’s headband has a life of its own,” Mr. Daman said. “It was always like her security blanket, for someone who was very tightly wound, very Type A. It was like the last piece of a very thought-out outfit that holds it all together.”

The Gen Z characters don’t need that anymore. “They have a different kind of self-confidence that comes from just being,” Mr. Daman said.

In the reboot, the mean girl Monet de Haan snarks, “She has a headband on” when she spots Zoya, the out-of-towner. Julien, her half sister, promptly unties the silk scarf and slips it around Zoya’s neck.

Headbands may be scarce, but neckties of all sorts are in. Audrey Hope, another member of the gang, wears hair ribbons or scarves around her neck, resembling a tie. “It really shows both sides of her — very feminine, classic energy as well as a side of her that’s a little bit more masc,” said Emily Alyn Lind, who plays Audrey.

The desire to ditch the stuffy headband speaks to the times. “We’re in an internet age,” said Ms. Alexander, who plays Julien. “People don’t feel like they need to be one thing anymore. We’ve been exposed to so much.”



Source link Nytimes.com

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