From Plagues to Floods to Black Tuesday, Fashion Goes On


PARIS — That the ultimate day of Paris Fashion Week was additionally a Mardi Noir — a Black Tuesday, with massed demonstrators marching furiously throughout the Place de la Concorde to the National Assembly to protest pension reform — appeared inevitable. Of course there could be revolt. There have been fires, plague, floods. How else would anybody have anticipated this discombobulating, fraught style month to finish?

The strangeness started with a surprisingly deserted New York present schedule, moved to London amid windstorm Dennis, and crawled by Milan with the coronavirus. By the time Paris rolled round, so had face masks and excessive quantities of hand sanitizer.

The final present of the season was held on the shuttered Louvre, which has been closed to vacationers and artwork lovers alike due to employees fears over the virus, however not, apparently, to Louis Vuitton (at the very least not its courtyards). In trooped the bedraggled style people as all the time, however the temper was not the identical as all the time. They went previous the sunset-dusted pyramid, certain, but in addition previous the teams of police in black riot gear with articulated leather-based armor and plastic shields, previous the dozen police vans idling close by. Instead of the standard giddy reduction as a result of the style circus was nearly over, there was a barely restrained want to flee. Get me out of right here! Now we will get again to — self quarantine.

But, “you can’t run away from things,” Sarah Burton mentioned backstage a day earlier at Alexander McQueen, simply earlier than a present she known as “a love letter to other women, my team, our children,” rooted within the historical past of Wales: its crimson homes, poetry, quilts, landscapes, “togetherness.”

“You have to be present,” Ms. Burton mentioned. “We have to be bold,” even after we are feeling fragile. Or at the very least gown as if we’re. Ms. Burton’s tailoring — in grey and black strains meant to mimic a blown-up quilting sample that slashed throughout the physique in graphic element, usually with a swallowtail hem on the again — is all that.

So are her draped blanket clothes in leather-based and wool, worn over one shoulder; and her intricately beaded clothes worn over slick leather-based leggings and falling someplace between spider net and chain mail, plus just a little extra: look nearer and there have been hearts embedded within the embroidery. That’s what style may give you: a manner to be on the earth. A manner to transfer by the day nonetheless unsettlingly that day evolves as a result of — properly, it’s obtained you lined.

Pun supposed. Just a little humor is not any unhealthy factor in the meanwhile. Witness Glenn Martens of Y/Project, who’s a dab hand at twisting the fundamentals of on a regular basis to regularly problem what’s revealed, what’s hid, and what makes you blink and look once more. Like denims and different trousers reduce right into a deep V on the entrance in order that they appeared perennially unzipped, worn over quite a lot of bodysuits, like some type of perverse chaps. Now you see it — what precisely do you see?

A manner to recommend we’ve all come undone, maybe. And that regardless of all of it, you don’t even have to fear that your pants will fall down. There’s an inner waistband. In the tip, we determine it out. Hopefully. Mostly.

Chitose Abe at Sacai normally does, setting herself a puzzle each season — how to mix disparate and oppositional parts into an elevated entire — after which fixing it. This time it was Chesterfields and tuxedos (masculine clichés) and lingerie (female ones), and the end result, which might simply have been lumpy, was as an alternative elegantly liberated.

At Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada might have eschewed her standard post-show press meet-and-greet-and-kiss-and-ruminate however her runway ruminated for her in a extremely idiosyncratic recreation of silver display screen dress-up: crushed silk sheaths in circus brights, taffeta poufs, 1940s suiting with skirts slit to the thigh; sheer slips dripping crystal drops. As she mentioned by way of e mail, garments “not only impress on others, but help reframe a perception of the wearer in their own mind.”

And at Chanel, Virginie Viard continued her ever-so-gentle lightening up of the Karl Lagerfeld legacy. Her foremost innovation to this point has been pockets (that’s not sarcasm; pockets are nice) however this time she additionally forewent the elaborate sets Mr. Lagerfeld made famous in favor of a mirrored floor and a few halfhearted smoke machines, across which her models ambled, sometimes in pairs, sometimes in threes, chatting away, as if they had forgotten they were on a runway.

It was charming, in a voyeuristic way, but the stripped-down set also had the side effect of focusing attention on the clothes, which were — not.

There was the usual bouclé, mostly in knee-length skirt suits and coats in citrine and watermelon. There were some little black dresses with the requisite white lace collar and cuffs. There was a nod to Mr. Lagerfeld’s love of a Belle Epoque frock: a strapless taffeta number with detached puffed sleeves. Every look came paired with fairy-tale “seven league boots,” as Ms. Viard called them in her show notes, which were cool.

But there were also hot pants over sheer logo tights and cropped white cotton dickeys. Blouson gray bouclé high-waist sweats and a matching bandeau top. A ruffled wrestling pinafore over a white lace tee. And lots and lots of jodhpurs that looked more like very wide track pants with snaps — brass, diamanté — up the side, most of which had been popped open so the pant legs flapped awkwardly around the calves and knees.

Mr. Lagerfeld often had similar clunkers in his shows, but they were obscured by the supermarkets and airplanes that surrounded them. Ms. Viard left hers front and center. That’s both brave and foolhardy.

Perhaps she was nostalgic for earlier days when the next gen (because these could only have been directed at the youth vote) could mosey along the streets in their Chanel without running into a protest and fearing they would be Marie Antoinette’d in their double Cs (the former French queen is the muse of the season).

But while there’s nothing wrong with a little yen for ye olden days — fashion was built on it — you can’t ignore the reality of right now. After all, the past is how we got to here: this weird, confused, end-of-days moment. That was the point of Nicolas Ghesquière’s Vuitton show, which began in the gloom of a black box stuck in that deserted Louvre courtyard.

Then a curtain rose and lo! a chorus of 200, dressed as characters from 350 years of history, the 15th century to today, voices raised in song. And lo! came frilly petticoats beneath pinstripe suit jackets and motherboard tank tops. Then came elaborately ruched and ruffled pit-stop jumpsuits. Came a jet-beaded toreador bolero atop a leather milkmaid corset and motocross pants.

Came a clash of centuries and styles so jarring and confrontational it was almost cathartic. Ask not whose fault it is we are where we are. Ask instead where we go next.



Source link Nytimes.com

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