A Personal Pilgrimage to a Downed Warplane in Papua New Guinea

Early in the afternoon of April 5, 1944, an A-20 Havoc, wrestling with obvious engine hassle after an assault on the Japanese stronghold of Hollandia (present-day Jayapura, Indonesia), withdrew from formation and fell from the sky. It vanished into a thick jungle cover, exploding on impression. On board have been Second Lt. Thomas Freeman, 23, and Cpl. Ralph A. McKendrick, 22.

I visited and photographed this World War II crash website in 2019. But it wasn’t my first go to. That got here in 1986, after I was 12 years outdated. My household had just lately moved to Papua New Guinea to work with a Bible-translation group — some 800 languages are spoken there — and, as a part of our introduction to its life and tradition, we lived for six weeks in a village referred to as Likan, beside the Clay River in East Sepik Province. The wreck website was an hour’s hike from the village.

Those weeks as a baby in Likan have been — they usually nonetheless are — a treasure. You felt your physique by the tropical air because it laid a blanket of humidity throughout your face, by the clayish soil in your naked toes, by the river’s cool water as you jumped in. You felt a reference to the individuals who sorted you, taught you. On hikes exterior the village, whereas crossing over timber that had fallen throughout streams and gullies and that served as rustic bridges, villagers, expert at balancing, would maintain your arms and preserve you regular.

Back in the village, you sat exterior houses and shared tales, tasted new meals, discovered new phrases, watched the fading mild of one other day. On clear nights, you seemed up in marvel on the Milky Way. You felt a burgeoning sense of residence.

This time and place in my childhood nurtured a sense of relatedness. The crash website did, too.

Early in our keep in Likan, a group of villagers led my dad, my sister and me to the location. I keep in mind the shrill sound of bugs, the remoteness, a sense of the sacred because the wreckage got here into view.

Though there was a lot I used to be coming to love about dwelling in Papua New Guinea, I used to be additionally nonetheless grieving the separation from a place — the United States — and the folks I had left a few months earlier than and knew I’d not see once more for 4 years, which is a very long time for a 12-year-old.

To stand earlier than this wreckage was to be keenly conscious that others had additionally been removed from residence. To gaze on the United States Army Air Forces insignia on the fuselage, to contact the rivets, to choose up one of many many .50-caliber cartridges scattered in the soil, to take into account that two lives ended right here — it supplied a bigger context in which to put my very own distance from residence, my very own place in the world.

This wreck, then, was not simply a relic of struggle. It was additionally a message, an envoy, a neighbor.

On June 20, 2019, sitting beside the pilot in a single-engine Quest Kodiak, I looked out over familiar landscape as the plane neared Likan. Twenty-seven years had passed since my last visit in 1992, and I and many others were making the journey here to celebrate with the community the completion of the New Testament translation into Waran, the local language. As the plane lined up for landing on the grass airstrip, I felt a deep joy — the sort you feel when, after a quarter century of wandering, you are returning to a central place in your life.

There were embraces and reunions, an old friend’s hand resting on my knee as we sat and shared stories. There were gray hairs and fading eyes. There were introductions to children and grandchildren, the sharing of some breadfruit (the taste of which I had sorely missed), the cool water of the river once more on my skin.

This return felt like a pilgrimage, a journey back to meaningful things that shaped me as a child and that I yearned again to encounter. This is part of the reason that, within 24 hours of touching down, I was hiking with others out of the village, back to the crash site. Now having lain on the jungle floor for 75 years, the plane was slightly reduced in size; bit by bit, parts like a propeller had been carried away.

Source link Nytimes.com

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